What Electric Vehicle should I get?

[Nysoz]

Years and miles mean less for an EV. There’s almost no depreciation right now for a Tesla. I’m thinking of selling my model 3 that’s 2 years old and 50k miles for almost the same price I bought it for.

What I would look for in buying a used model 3 would be estimated miles at max charge to make sure the previous owner took care of the battery and make sure it’s a iteration that has a heat pump which was started to be included in 2021 sometime I think.

[Tim]

I'd be a little wary of trusting Tesla to tell me if they need to fork over a new battery. But I guess there some variant of that problem with all auto repairs. It's a lot easier when the problem is more black and white (i.e. car won't start, etc.).

I think the warranty issue is a valid concern. A natural degrading of 5% per year considering “warranty” can be easy or hard depends a lot on the process each manufacturer uses. Six years on paper for a complete new battery is different than a few cells to “patch” the problem to 71%..
Warranty and the remedy is a significant cost. Naturally an adversarial point of contention. Recalls, advisories and lemon laws have been necessary plus the rate of change in battery technology leaves many variables. The warranty policies and service are probably at best unknown.
Not by design, just a natural thing. Cold weather and fast charging seems to accelerate degradation.
I hate the warranty process for “duplicating” the problem in the shop. Necessary, but I have had the opportunity to take a service manager for a 30 minute ride to “prove” after 3 times in the shop a problem (not an EV, but an example). Also had a manufacturer’s engineer “approve” a warranty repair the didn’t meet the “shop criteria”. Hey, the problem exists, please fix it.
With the increasing volumes, warranty claims will evolve. Valid concern but no suggestions.

[StarTrekDoc]

Who does their gas mileage efficiency at 8 years on their regular cars? So your current car gets 40 MPG new; do you think it'll be 30 MPG at 8 years or near 40 MPG still

[Auric goldfinger]

Battery degradation is much closer to 1%|year. My 3 year old 100S started with 335 mile range. Now 328-29.

[TXDoc21]

Tesla baby! Plaid or nothing!

[AR]

Years and miles mean less for an EV. There’s almost no depreciation right now for a Tesla. I’m thinking of selling my model 3 that’s 2 years old and 50k miles for almost the same price I bought it for.

What I would look for in buying a used model 3 would be estimated miles at max charge to make sure the previous owner took care of the battery and make sure it’s a iteration that has a heat pump which was started to be included in 2021 sometime I think.

If it is not depreciating, then maybe I should just buy a new one and sell in 1-2 yrs when the Lucid is available. If it's not depreciating very much, then all I'm out is taxes and fees, which when added up is not that bad for a 1-2 year rental. Thoughts?

[Panscan]

If it is not depreciating, then maybe I should just buy a new one and sell in 1-2 yrs when the Lucid is available. If it's not depreciating very much, then all I'm out is taxes and fees, which when added up is not that bad for a 1-2 year rental. Thoughts?

While that is true regarding depreciation now, it likely wont stay true in future with more EVs coming on road, chip problems easing and more brands providing competition and innovation. Doesn't mean it still won't hold its value pretty well but I would say the odds you can drive the car for free for a couple years like people are doing now are very unlikely. It's pretty likely we are at the peak or slightly past the peak of the insane used car prices.

[StarTrekDoc]

It's true. We can sell our Y right now for probably MORE than we bought it last year.

[nomindforfinance]

If it is not depreciating, then maybe I should just buy a new one and sell in 1-2 yrs when the Lucid is available. If it's not depreciating very much, then all I'm out is taxes and fees, which when added up is not that bad for a 1-2 year rental. Thoughts?

We got a new Model 3 Long Range back in August after a 2 month wait. I only have about 2400 miles on it right now. It looks we could trade it for what we have in it (taxes, fees, and all) or even try to sell private party for even more and make a modest profit. My partner joked "Why don't you just order another one, you can always have a new one in the pipeline, worst case if values tank you just lose the order fee, best case a revolving door of new cars costing you zero extra". It would work as long as the market stays the way it is, which is improbable.

[Nysoz]

Model 3 has always held up in value pretty well. Recently it’s abnormal high due to chip shortage and such. Also Tesla has been raising prices the past few quarters so I’m sure that has something to do with it as well.

Then there’s the fsd gamble/speculation. Right now it’s $10k. Theoretically once fsd fully solved it’ll likely go up in price again in the future making the $10k purchase more valuable as well.

[Tim]

Who does their gas mileage efficiency at 8 years on their regular cars? So your current car gets 40 MPG new; do you think it'll be 30 MPG at 8 years or near 40 MPG still

Whoa. I push the knob on the 2008 Accord and it hasn’t degraded at all.
You lose compression then you lose power and efficiency. That is the maintenance cost. Oil, timing belt, electronic ignition. A comparison would be maintenance vs battery replacement.
All used cars have spiked in price tremendously.

[Nysoz]

A modern day ICE engine maintained properly retains a lot of its efficiency (which is still pretty inefficient). The problem for most people is properly identifying and maintaining all potential sources of inefficiencies. All it takes is a bad spark plug, O2 sensor, or even a not clean air/oil filter and some efficiency is lost.

To compare ICE vs EV, maintenance is maintenance. So oil changes, inspections, timing belt, transmission fluid, brake pads whatever else in the ICE car vs possibly battery coolant. If you're wanting to worry about the cost of the battery replacement, you have to compare it to the engine or transmission repair/replacement vs the battery/motor replacement.

[StarTrekDoc]

A modern day ICE engine maintained properly retains a lot of its efficiency (which is still pretty inefficient). The problem for most people is properly identifying and maintaining all potential sources of inefficiencies. All it takes is a bad spark plug, O2 sensor, or even a not clean air/oil filter and some efficiency is lost.

To compare ICE vs EV, maintenance is maintenance. So oil changes, inspections, timing belt, transmission fluid, brake pads whatever else in the ICE car vs possibly battery coolant. If you're wanting to worry about the cost of the battery replacement, you have to compare it to the engine or transmission repair/replacement vs the battery/motor replacement.

Exactly my point. Most folk will replace at scheduled atimes and between then the efficiency drops. A spark plug loses performance once initially used and finally replaced. Same for all parts and.fluids of the engine impacting MPG.

There is a degradation of ICE MPG and like the degradation of a battery it depends largely on user habits . If we charge only when SOC goes down to 20% and up to 80% we would have little degradation. We just don't do that.

[TheDangerZone]

We're a few years out from a new car for my wife who currently drives an older Highlander, but I am curious to see how what Toyota and Honda bring to the electric CUV/SUV segment in the near future. I imagine if they're halfway decent and priced reasonably, they will start garnering quite a bit of market share.

[Nysoz]

Toyota has been really resisting the change to EVs and opting more to stay with hydrogen fuel cells. They have announced an EV though.

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a3...duction-specs/