Originally posted by CordMcNally
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Originally posted by burritos View Post
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HEVs use a battery to run the motor; just what charges the battery is simple hydrogen -- VERY low maintanence and not carrying around heavy expensive batteries. Range 400+ per refuel
Small problem. no infrastructure.
For cities with mass transit -- makes perfect sense for buses and airports and seaports for supporting this HEV tech.
We do have a hydrogen fueling station 1 mile away from us
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Originally posted by StarTrekDoc View PostBEV - Battery EV; PHEV - PluginHybrid EV; HEV - Hydrogencell EV
ICE - Internal Combustion Engine
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BEV - Battery EV; PHEV - PluginHybrid EV; HEV - Hydrogencell EV
ICE - Internal Combustion Engine
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Originally posted by burritos View Post
Why do you say 'B' EV I figured out that it stands for battery, but all EV's have B's correct? Or was that the original term and it got cut short to EV?
bev, phev, hev......
all squares are rectangles etc
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Originally posted by StarTrekDoc View Post"BEV car will save $790 over 15,000 miles (24,000km) compared to an ICE car. For an SUV the savings is $1,020, and for a pickup truck it estimates it to be $1,310."
That needs some real extrapolations for Cost of ownership on BEVs for SUV and pickup trucks --- wonder the n= on those categories as don't know any real BEV truck anywhere
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"BEV car will save $790 over 15,000 miles (24,000km) compared to an ICE car. For an SUV the savings is $1,020, and for a pickup truck it estimates it to be $1,310."
That needs some real extrapolations for Cost of ownership on BEVs for SUV and pickup trucks --- wonder the n= on those categories as don't know any real BEV truck anywhere
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https://electrek.co/2020/10/05/tesla...on-police-car/
this police department saved $6k their first year compared to a Dodge Charger.
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Owning an electric car really does save money, Consumer Reports finds
Most EVs are $6,000-$10,000 cheaper to operate than an equivalent ICE vehicle
https://arstechnica.com/cars/2020/10...reports-finds/
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Originally posted by Nysoz View Post
"Charge Port Light
• WHITE: The charge port door is open.
Model 3 is ready to charge and the
connector is not inserted, or the latch is
released and the connector is ready to be
removed.
• BLUE: Model 3 detects that a connector
has been plugged in.
• BLINKING BLUE: Model 3 is
communicating with the connector. Either
Model 3 is preparing to charge, or a
charging session is scheduled to begin at
a specified future time.
• BLINKING GREEN: Charging is in progress.
As Model 3 approaches a full charge, the
frequency of the blinking slows.
• SOLID GREEN: Charging is complete.
• SOLID AMBER: The connector is not fully
plugged in. Realign the connector to the
charge port and insert fully.
• BLINKING AMBER: Model 3 is charging at
a reduced current (AC charging only).
• RED: A fault is detected and charging has
stopped. Check the touchscreen for a fault
message."
Found that in the forums, sounds like that was a quote from the manual. Is the 14-50 plug and adapter fully plugged in so it's flush? the plug fully plugged into the car?
if you're able to pull full amps from the leaf+j1772, you should be able to pull full amps from directly plugging into the 14-50. if it doesn't resolve something possibly may be faulty with the adapter and I'd contact tesla.
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Originally posted by burritos View PostSo I got the 14-50 adapter for the OEM Tesla charger. When plugged into m y 240 v, I only get 15 mi/hr charge with the amber flashing light. With my leaf charger+J1772 adapter, the Y gets 28 mi/hr with the green flashing light. Does that seem right?
• WHITE: The charge port door is open.
Model 3 is ready to charge and the
connector is not inserted, or the latch is
released and the connector is ready to be
removed.
• BLUE: Model 3 detects that a connector
has been plugged in.
• BLINKING BLUE: Model 3 is
communicating with the connector. Either
Model 3 is preparing to charge, or a
charging session is scheduled to begin at
a specified future time.
• BLINKING GREEN: Charging is in progress.
As Model 3 approaches a full charge, the
frequency of the blinking slows.
• SOLID GREEN: Charging is complete.
• SOLID AMBER: The connector is not fully
plugged in. Realign the connector to the
charge port and insert fully.
• BLINKING AMBER: Model 3 is charging at
a reduced current (AC charging only).
• RED: A fault is detected and charging has
stopped. Check the touchscreen for a fault
message."
Found that in the forums, sounds like that was a quote from the manual. Is the 14-50 plug and adapter fully plugged in so it's flush? the plug fully plugged into the car?
if you're able to pull full amps from the leaf+j1772, you should be able to pull full amps from directly plugging into the 14-50. if it doesn't resolve something possibly may be faulty with the adapter and I'd contact tesla.
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Originally posted by adventure View Post
The leaf chargers usually have a small dial on the back to determine how many amps it'll pull from the circuit. Ours can, and is set to pull the full 30amps. The Telsa one (gen 2) can pull 32A, and should with a 14-50 (page 6). It might... dynamically tell how large the breaker is on the circuit (Tesla web page?) ? So, no, at first glance that doesn't add up.
How big is the breaker on each circuit? Any idea what guage wire you have? Any chance it was just hot out / in the sunshine for w/ the 14-50 test charge?
Read through the Troubleshooting (page 11) for which type of light/blinking light(s) you may have.
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Originally posted by burritos View PostSo I got the 14-50 adapter for the OEM Tesla charger. When plugged into m y 240 v, I only get 15 mi/hr charge with the amber flashing light. With my leaf charger+J1772 adapter, the Y gets 28 mi/hr with the green flashing light. Does that seem right?
How big is the breaker on each circuit? Any idea what guage wire you have? Any chance it was just hot out / in the sunshine for w/ the 14-50 test charge?
Read through the Troubleshooting (page 11) for which type of light/blinking light(s) you may have.
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